Great piece, Jill. It really does take being away from America for some time to be able to see how those things that once seemed normal are . . . not. Much of what you write about Italy also applies in France--I laughed at the dinged, bashed up car part. My poor car gets a new dent a day, even parked outside my house. I can't imagine how I'd cope with a new unscathed car--fortunately, I'm never likely to find out.